Expedition Logo Kinabalu: Mesilau-Low's Gully Expedition 2001  


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  • Approach Routes
    By Brent Raymond

    The following routes are non-technical although all but the tourist trail require prior permission, multi-day backcountry skills and a good level of fitness. In addition, these routes are not done often and may require off-trail navigation through thick vegetation. Water is not always available and, during wet weather, ropes may be needed to negotiate steep vegetated or rocky terrain.

    Currently, I know of only 5 routes up the mountain, but it is quite possible that others have been done. In addition to the tourist trail, routes have been made down the full length of the East Ridge to Poring Hot Springs, up the NW flanks via Marai Parai, up the Mesilau River to the East plateau via the East Ridge and up the Panataran River to North Peak. I will endeavour to compile descriptions for each of these established routes.


    The Tourist Trail

    "It was an eerie and fantastic walk and one to breed wild flights of fancy and dreams..."
    Oscar Cook, 1927

    Thousands of tourists climb Mt. Kinabalu every year, however, a respectable portion of them never reach the actual summit. Due to miscalculations of fitness, ability, and of the effects of altitude many people are forced into a hasty retreat or linger "green-gilled" at the Laban Rata guesthouse. Don't let this happen to you! Although the tourist route is accessible and well-trodden, it remains a steep and strenuous hike requiring good footwear, reasonable fitness and, above all, common sense.

    The trek up Mt. Kinabalu is usually done in two days. The winners of the annual Mt. Kinabalu mountain race run to Low's Peak and down in under 3 hours, however a more leisurely pace is advised to soak in the amazing natural history and views along the way. Most hikers walk from Timpohon Gate (1830 m) to Laban Rata (3352 m) the first day and continue on early the following morning to the summit of Low's Peak (4 095 m) and back down to Park HQ. To reach Timpohon gate, walk (1 hour) or catch a shuttle bus (15 minutes) from Park HQ. Alternatively, you can stroll through lush Oak forests via the Mempening and Bukit Ular trails - these take about three times longer than walking the road.

    Day 1
    From Timpohon gate you will be climbing 1500m over about 6 km to reach the Laban Rata complex. The trail is well equipped with shelters, or Pondoks, with simple outhouses and water. The water runs straight off the mountain and is stored in metal tanks for thirsty hikers. Although people do drink the water without treatment, it is advised to treat ALL water during your stay in Sabah to avoid illness.

    Hike past Carson's waterfall and climb steeply for 25 minutes to Pondok Kandis. Another 15 minutes will take you to Pondok Ubah from which 25 minutes of hiking through pleasant mossy, cloud forest will put you at Pondok Lowi. Here the moist forest is rich with orchids, ferns and dwarfed trees. Continue past Pondok Mempening to reach the Layang-Layang Staff Quarters. This is a great place for a lunch break and to soak in some good views of the mountain.

    From Layang-Layang, the trail climbs relentlessly past two more shelters before reaching the first mountain huts. You will notice the vegetation changing to stunted Leptospernum and Dacrydium trees as you climb - despite their size many are hundreds of years old. Just before the first shelter, keep an eye out for the cups of Nepenthes Villosa, a large insect-eating pitcher plant. Look don't touch!

    Once you have past the last shelter, you will have the option of taking a detour to visit Paka Cave. This "cave" is little more than the underside of a large boulder, but has historical significance as the place where early explorers to the mountain passed many cold, damp nights. The Paka Cave detour reconnects with the main trail and is an interesting diversion.

    Forty minutes past Paka cave you will reach the first mountain huts. Trudge on to Laban Rata and buy yourself a nice hot plate of Mee Goring, scarf down some juice and relax on the balcony enjoying the fantastic views over Sabah. By now, those of you who are used to living at sea level will definately be feeling the altitude! A link will be added soon with some advice on how to deal with altitude illness.

    Day 2
    If you want to see the sunrise its going to be an early start. Either way, you'll be woken up around 2 or 3 am by the clunking and chatting of excited hikers eating breakfast and packing for the final climb to Low's Peak. If you are a fast hiker, best get moving otherwise you'll be stuck in the inevitable traffic jam that occurs on the initial stairs. A 45 minutes hike will bring you to the highest mountain huts on Kinabalu, Sayat-Sayat (named for the Leptospernum tree). From Sayat-Sayat the summit is only 1 hour away! Follow the fixed ropes up moderate slabs to the final summit ridge. Perched high above Borneo you can rest for a moment, watch the sunrise and take pictures for Singaporean school groups before descending the way you came.

    If you don't like the idea of sharing your summit with others and don't mind watching the sunrise from Laban Rata (just as good in my opinion), set out a little later and gain the summit when everybody has gone down. The disadvantage is that wet weather can come in as early as 8 am and spoil your fun as well as any views.

    Here are a few links for more information:
    Popular Web-Guide to the Tourist Trail
    A personal experience on the tourist route. Pictures.

    East Ridge: Mesilau River to East Plateau

    No information on this route yet.

    East Ridge: Poring Hot Springs

    No information on this route yet.

    North-West Flank: Marai Parai Route

    The first recorded ascent of this route was done in 1987. The route description as described by the first ascent party appears below. Be aware that, particularly on the initial approach, paths may have changed over the years since this description was documented. The first ascent team took two days and did not use any ropes. Ropes, however, may be necessary in wet weather. Few parties ever use this route.

    Day 1
    From park HQ, drive to Kampung Kian Satu by Land Cruiser (~1 hr.). From the road, take the prominent footpath which traverses the mountain northwards. The path traverses for about 30 minutes and then dips down to the Haya Haya River. Cross this river. The path then crosses three ridges and three more rivers called Sungai Makai Tukan, Dohatang and Kinotoki respectively. These rivers are easily crossed after a prolonged dry period, although it is understood that they are almost impassable with heavy rains. 2.5 hrs.

    From Sungai Kinotoki, the path rises steeply and continuously to meet a ridge after about 20 minutes Here there is a T-junction. Turn right to climb up the ridge towards the mountain. A small clearing is reached in about 30 minutes (may be remnants of a camp here). This is the Marai Parai camp which is used by Sabah Park Staff and water is available within 50 m.

    Continue following the ridge upwards from the Marai Parai camp for about 20 minutes until it opens out into grassy terrain. This is Marai Parai. The vegetation changes here due to a small zone of ultrabasic soil underlying the area. Nepenthes Raja, the park's largest Nepenthes sp. (an genera of insect eating pitcher plants) is found here. The path continues upwards relentlessly but is fairly clear. Eventually, another open grassy clearing (known as Komburongoh Sodikas) is reached. This is where the cut trail ends. 2.5 hrs.

    From the end of the cut trail, the route consists of finding ones way through the vegetation. The first ascent party followed various pig and deer trails which continued up the ridge to their first bivvy amongst the mossy forest at 9500 ft. Be prepared for thick vegetation and vicious rattan plants. No water is available here. The first ascent team reported making tea with water collected from Nepenthes, however, excessive use of this as a source of water has been known to cause diahorrea. 2.5 hrs.

    Day 2
    Continue up the ridge staying on the left side. The ground begins to fall steeply to the left and the vegetation becomes increasingly entangled. After about 30 minutes, you will reach a small hillock. From here, drop down to the north and across to the next ridge. The easiest line takes the bottom of a gully, however, the first ascentionists decided to head north after walking about 20 minutes as the gully was taking them to far to the West. Fight the tiresome vegetation heading North to a stream bed with water. 1.5 hrs.

    Follow the stream bed upstream for about 100 m until the scrambling becomes more difficult. Head left over vegetated rock and back into mossy forest. Continue working upwards and left and cross another stream. After some more vegetation, the terrain becomes more rocky with scattered Leptospernum trees. 1.5 hrs.

    Continue upwards and left to meet mossy forest. Eventually, you will reach the upper limit of vegetation against the steep rock face below Alexandra Peak. Follow the edge of the vegetation which rises up and left until it drops steeply away below a buttress at the North end of the Dewali Pinnacles. 1.5 hrs.

    A gully drops down from the North from here. Easy scrambling gains access to the slabs below the buttresses of Dewali Pinnacles and on to the bottow of the gully between No Name Peak and Dewali. In dry conditions, the steep slabs are easily climbed directly to the West Gurkha Hut. 2 hrs.

    April 16-17th, 1987 Steve Pinfield, Ansow Gunsalam, Robert New

    North Peak via Panataran River

    No information on this route yet.

    Bowen's Route: West Plateau to East Plateau

    This route starts at the Laban Rata complex and traverse below cliff bands through high leptospernum forest to reach the East Plateau. Originally, this route involved technical rock climbing to negotiate the cliff bands, however, today fixed ladders permit easier access. Although no technical equipment is necessary, one should be comfortable with heights as the ladders are exposed and a trip would be disasterous. A full day return from Laban Rata to King George Peak and a nice break from the crowds on the tourist trail. Chances are you'll be the only ones on this route!

    From the resthouse at Laban Rata, follow the tourist trail up the stairs to a small cairn on the right a short distance before the cliff bands begin. Follow a reasonable trail (usually flagged with coloured tape) which traverses below the major cliff bands. Scramble through boulders and down the occasional short, scrambly section to reach the tangled forest of Leptospernum. Once in the forest, follow the trail (well marked) until it climbs into a steep sided gully. The trail traverses up the right side of the drainage and a short scramble will bring you onto the top of a cliff band. From here look for cairns to lead you through the cliff bands above. Aluminum ladders and fixed ropes offer easy access up the steeper sections (and show you the way!). The final section consists of several steep slabs negotiated by ladders to the East Plateau.

    From the top of the last ladder, you can continue scrambling up to explore the East Plateau. Many parties climb to King George Peak and then return to Laban Rata. Cairns will lead you both up to King George Peak and, more importantly, back to the top of the ladders which can be difficult to find on descent.

     

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