Approach: From Sayat-Sayat, head E keeping level by cutting up past old toilet under white sewage pipe. Follow cairns to far L side of col between Tunku Abdul Rahman Peak and Lion's Head. Traverse col to base of a short, loose arete leading to the base of a chimney / groove.

Lion's Head Direct           5.7
Start at the base of the loose arete.
Pitch 1
Carefully climb arete to reach the bottom of an obvious chimney / groove.
Pitch 2
Climb the chimney up and R until it ends. Finish by moving L to reach the summit.

Descent: Abseil off the E face to the col between Lion's Head and King Edward. Either continue to King Edward, the E plateau and Bowen's route or abseil 150m down the N face from a block with a stupidly placed bolt in the col.

Approach: Climb slabs above Sayat-Sayat to obvious large gap on E side of Donkey's Ears.

Stand Easy           150m, MS
On the approach to Cauldron Gap, there is a prominent sloping slab half-way up on the L wall. Start at the bottom R-hand edge.
Pitch 1           15m
Climb up to a large grassy ledge.
Pitch 2
Move up slab, past a piton, to a prominent crack (crux) 2m above the piton. From the crack, traverse to corner and follow corner 15m to boulders. Belay.
Pitch 3
Fork R and continue up slabs for 60m to a wall where slabs drop away to the L.
Pitch 4
Climb rotten corner and continue for 20m to the top.
Pendleton & Thompson

Kletterschue Crack           20m, MS
This climb is on the cauldron side of the pinnacle to the SE of Donkey's Ears. Start on a prominent crack at the N corner.
Pitch 1
Climb corner for 12m to a broken ledge. Mantle onto another ledge and belay on R.
Pitch 2
Traverse L 5m and either go straight up over the corner or continue the traverse into a scoop. From the scoop, traverse R to reach the top.
Pendleton & Thompson - 29.12.64

Descent: By abseil from the top.

Approach: From the Sayat-Sayat hut, walk along the summit trail until it is possible to scramble up slabs angling R to reach a position directly above Sayat-Sayat. Alternatively, head E keeping level with Sayat-Sayat by jumping over the white sewage pipe and walk up easy slabs to reach the left edge of Sayat-Sayat slab.

Practice Climb           40m, VD (unfinished)
This was the first line put up on the slabs and it follows the major shallow, broken gully up the centre of the slab. The first ascentionists report that the climb was unfinished, however, I suspect that since 1967 some climber or another has topped out to the upper slab. But who knows….
Pitch 1           25m, D
Start up line of weakness. Easy climbing leads to a piton belay under overlying slab on the L.
Pitch 2           10m, VD
Continue upwards to a small amphitheatre. Stance belay. Well, a stance belay in 1967 anyways!
Pitch 3           10m, ?
Route becomes steeper and climbing is all on small friction holds. This is the point where Craig & Oliver retreated. It seems reasonable to continue climbing up the steep 'waterfall' section to a large, loose and bushy alcove just below the top. If its raining, don't even think about it. As for the grade…you're guess is as good as mine.

Central Slab Route           50m, VS
Start 15m R of a low-angle, shallow broken gully on top of some large blocks. Climb L to a large flake where a small nut can be placed. Continue up and R to a bolt then over low-angle slab to a 2-bolt abseil anchor. A line of 3 bolts leads up a steep slab with no holds to a 2-bolt belay directly below the obvious cliff band. Climbing above the band is moderate slab climbing with no protection above the belay. A few bolts above the cliff band would allow climbers to top out.

Right Seam Route           80m, 5.8
Follows L-most of three R-slanting weaknesses on R side of main slab. Start at base of middle vegetated crack at two rusty ring bolts.
Pitch 1           60m, 5.7
Climb up vegetated crack and either continue past a ring-bolt up vegetated crack (easier) or traverse L before the bolt to L-most seam. Climb past 3 bolts to a small flake. Continue following seam past 2 more bolts to where seam and vegetated crack meet. Climb up from junction past a bolt to belay at a ring-bolt and hangerless bolt.
Pitch 2           20m, 5.8
Follow 2 manky ring-bolts (and a rotting wooden wedge!) through the cliffband to reach the upper slab. Straight up or slightly R past 2 bolts to reach top. Abundant belays on top.

Right Vegetated Crack           70m, 5.8
Scramble up about 10m above the base of the main slab at the far right edge and just below a ridiculously placed ring bolt. Start at ring-bolt.
Pitch 1           50m, 5.7
Climb up short wall following crack. Either traverse L to a R-slanting thin hands crack or continue up past another stupid ring-bolt following the main crack. When the bushes get thick, climb to one side of the vegetation on good, clean slabs - don't grab the vegetation. There is plenty of friction on the rock so there is no excuse for any gardening! Belay at the top of the crack on a small ledge with old slings.
Pitch2           20m, 5.8
From belay angle up and R over poorly protected slabs to cracks and easier ground. Abundant belays on top.

Descent: Head W down steep, broken slabs then traverse back E through scrub along base of main slab.

South-East Face

Approach: From Sayat-Sayat follow summit trail towards Low's Peak until you can contour L across slabs to the SE base of the Donkey's Ears.

South-East FaceDirect           80m, 5.10-
This wonderfully varied route takes a line straight up the SE face ending at the col between the two "ears". Start in a small bushy alcove reached by scrambling and bushwhaking down to a point directly below an obvious overhanging block about half way up the face.
Pitch 1           40m, 5.8
Climb straight up through corner and vegetated crack to a 6" ledge. Move R and follow first of poorly protected L-slanting crack / grooves to a small ledge. Move slightly R and up to base of hand / fist crack leading to overhang. Good belay.
Pitch 2           10m, 5.7
Jam up crack to belay directly below overhang at a U-bolt.
Pitch 3           10m, 5.10-
Climb crack / corner then traverse R and up to a U-bolt. Climb over edge onto steep face with shallow scoops (crux). Continue up flaring vegetated corner above exiting L to belay on ledge.
Pitch 4           20m, 5.7
Climb directly above belay up a series of vegetated corners to the top. Belay amongst giant boulders.

Descent: Walk down steep slabs on N side of W Donkey's Ear to reach col between Ugly Sister and Donkey's Ears. An easy walk E down moderate slabs to reach the tourist trail.

West Face

Zigzag           125m, S
Start at the centre of the W face. Traverse bottom slippery ledge for 30m until a prominent belay at corner is reached. Move diagonally up and L over a series of small ledges for 20m to a spike belay on a heathery knob. Climb over a small overhang and a steep, broken face to a prominent triangular shaped rock (30m). Traverse R along a crack on finger holds for 10m until the bottom L corner of a flake is reached. Move up L of the flake for 5m and surmount a huge chockstone. Climb on exposed face for 10m to the top
Pendleton & Heath - 10.12.64

Joanne           240m, VS
Same start as Zig-Zag at centre of the W face.
Pitch 1
Climb up prominent rib on the SE side for 35m until a piton belay is reached.
Pitch 2
Continue up rib for 3m and then follow sharp edge for another 6 m. Cross a convex slab for 25m to a broken rock at the far end. Climb over broken rock to belay.
Pitch 3
Drop down 6m on small hand holds, pendulum and jump 3m onto a small slab. Belay.
Pitch 4
Climb through a small overhang, traverse along small ledge for 3m to a crack. Semi-artificial (very likely has be climbed free but grade unrecorded) up crack for 25m (4 pitons) then move to R-hand edge of a flake. Belay at piton.
Pitch 5
Climb centre of flake to a small overhang and piton. Step R and around the inside R-hand side of flake and then up to a large chockstone (5m). Join the exposed last pitch of Zig-Zag.
Pendleton & Heath - 11.12.64

West Pinnacle

A possible route exists up the W corner / arete but it is unknown whether it is complete. A wide corner from just below the col on the S side appears to offer a pleasant line. A sling is present on the face below and slightly L of a bulge and steep seemingly unprotected face above. Looks scary!

East Pinnacle

Approach: An old aid climb exists up the short E face of the E pinnacle. It has been free climbed. From the tourist path at 8km contour across slabs to the N side of Donkey's Ears and scramble up to the col between the ears.

East Face Aid Route           30m, E4 6a
Start from the col below a short wall with bolts. Climb up ledges to short difficult wall leading to an easy slab. Continue up the line of fixed gear to the summit. Probably 15-20 assorted bolts and pitons on the way!

Descent: By abseil to base of route.

East Face

Approach: The obvious face of South Peak one sees from the tourist path. Break off path at large boulders (careful a lot of people shit here!) and walk easily to base of face.

South Chimney           30m, S
Looking at the East face of South Peak as you walk up from Sayat-Sayat, there is an obvious chimney on the far L side going up to the summit ridge. Protection is desperate. About 5m R and up from the top of the chimney is an old loose piton belay. The first climbers failed to complete the climb right to the actual summit. The second pitch along the summit ridge was finished by a Royal Marine Party later. From the top of the chimney they traversed along the obvious summit ridge to the top.
Briggs & Khagendrabahdur - 16.8.69

Spice World           50m, S
On the L-side of the face, this climb follows a blocky crack / seam between the obvious red wall on the R and the vegetated chimmney to the L. The weakness works its way up to a large detached block above which is a small alcove.
Pitch 1           35m, S
Follow line to block, then make awkward moves over block (crux) into the short, vegetated loose alcove. Belay.
Pitch 2          15m, D
Scramble to back of large ledge above belay and climb up short corner to reach summit ridge. Easy scrambling up ridge to attain summit.
Brent Raymond, Mark Davidson, Michael Jaimen - 2.10.98

Central Route           90m, 5.7
A direct line to the summit with pleasant climbing. Start at a conspicuous 5m high flake on the L side of the central slab. Wander up grooves in central slab to an obvious R leaning crackline leading directly to the summit. Several bolts - apparently used for aid - exist near the top of the route. 2-3 pitches.

North-East Arete           70m?, 5.10+
A route up the NE-arete starts at the extreme R side of the east face at a line of bolts. Follow bolts to top.

Descent: Easy descent down slabs and around N side of peak to base of climbs.

East Face

Approach: From the summit trail at around 8km, walk straight across easy terrain to the base of the east face. For climbs starting at the col between St. John's and Low's, follow the summit trail to just below Low's Peak then contour around to center of col.

East Face Right           100m, 5.7
Start in col between St. John's and Low's Peak at the extreme N end of the E face. Scramble up towards St. Johns and belay at the base of slabby arete directly under the apex of overhanging arete above.
Pitch 1           40m, 5.6
Climb up from the belay following the arete to a piton. Traverse L onto the E face past another piton and 2 ring-bolts to reach the base of a vertical crack / groove with a ring-bolt at its base. Belay.
Pitch 2           50m, 5.6
A delightful pitch straight up well protected crack to a large sloping ledge. Belay.
Pitch 3           15m, 5.7
Continue up and L on very poorly protected rock to a large ledge directly underneath the L-most summit block. Belay at 2 bolts.

East Face

Mari Tengok Lekuk Itu     270m, E3 6a A3 / 5.11b A3
Pitch 1  35m, HVS 5a / 5.10a
Pitch 2  40m, E3 6a / 5.11b A3
Pitch 3  40m, HVS 5a / 5.10a
Pitch 4  50m, HVS 5a / 5.10a
Pitch 5/6  100m, HS 4a-VS 4c / 5.6-5.8

South Face

Poms in Paradise     195m, HVS 5a
Pitch 1  20m, S
Solo up to the first belay stance on a ledge below an overhang.
Pitch 2  45m, VS 4c
Climb straight up from stance then turn overhang on the R following a groove to the next belay.
Pitch 3  35m, VS 4b
Climb up through a short groove to belay below overlapping slabs.
Pitch 4  45m, HVS 5a
Wander up slabs to the R of a large flake to belay below short wall.
Pitch 5  50m, VS 4c
Climb wall and enter R leaning groove/crack to arrive on the summit ridge.
Steve Pinfield, Ruedi Abderhalden & Roland Brandli - 8.3.87

Windbird     95m, 18 (Australian)
Approach:From where the col meets the face, scramble L up a ramp to an apex to reach the belay.
Pitch 1  30m, 16
Climb diagonally up and L, over exfoliations, up to a small black roof under a large flake.
Pitch 2  35m, 15
Move diagonally up and L to the top of a small corner. Continue up on good holds to a small ledge at the base of an obvious R facing corner.
Pitch 3  45m, 13
Climb corner to a ledge. Move R and up on jugs then follow an easy groove on the R side of the west ridge.
Pitch 4  45m, 16
Continue up groove to blocky ground on the ridge crest. Descent is possible from this position. On the rounded buttress above, follow thin crack and slab on L to a blocky ledge.
Pitch 5  40m, 18
Move up a difficult slabby buttress for 5m then, with increasing ease, up a superb ridge to blocks. Unprotected. At the base of the buttress an old piton and sling indicate a previous ascent.
Ian Brown & Keith Williams, 13.9.93

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